For more detailed consideration of these questions please refer to our book 'Gardening with Old Roses'. The relevant pages are noted below.

1. When is the best time to buy and plant bare root roses?

Roses are lifted and packed only when there has been enough winter weather to ensure safe transplanting. The earliest they become available is usually November and they can be safely transplanted up until April. After April they are available in pots. We take orders for the following year's bare root roses from May. These will usually become available the following November.

See our Book p. 134

2. Should I be looking for a climber or a rambler?

Generally, Climbers are best for training up a wall or a trellis. Ramblers are more suited to a less formal situation, for example, scrambling through trees, growing over a shed or garage, or rambling up and over low walls. It is important to bear in mind that any free-standing shrub over 5ft high can be trained as a Climber. Many of the shrub roses in our collection we recommend as Climbers.

See our Book pp 14-18 and 90.

3. Can I grow roses in tubs?

In the right conditions both Shrubs and Climbers can be successfully grown in tubs. The container size must be sufficient to support the anticipated growth: a half beer barrel size is usually adequate. Large pots of this size can also be used successfully. It is essential to water roses in tubs. Do not let the tubs dry out.

See our Book p.122.

4. What colours of rose are best against a white wall?

Where the foliage of the rose is quite sparce, as with the Teas, Hybrid Teas and Bourbons, the colour of the rose needs to be matched or contrasted with the colour of the wall. Where the foliage of the rose is dense, as with the Noisettes and Ramblers, the flowers are held against the foliage and so the colour of the wall is less critical. So a white flowered rambler will look dramatic and pretty against a white wall.

See our Book p. 14.

5. Can I grow Old roses in the shade?

Most roses prefer a little shade: it is better not to grow a dark red Climber on a hot south-facing wall. The roses in our collection that are particularly suited to positions where there is less than 4 hours (potential) sunshine per day can be identified using the search facililities in the Rose Collection section of this web site

6. Do you send roses abroad?

Yes, we can export roses to most countries. Some require local import permits. Please contact us for details.

7. Why should I choose once-flowering (Summer flowering) roses when repeat-flowering are available?

This is very often the first question we are asked, and the answer may seem obvious. But it is not a matter to be decided hastily, unless there are special circumstances. To reject a rose simply because it is not repeat-flowering can be to miss some of the most refined and beautiful of plants.

Of course, in a very small garden repeat-flowering varieties can be important in maintaining colour continuity. For larger gardens, however, thought should be given to some of the prized qualities of once-flowering varieties, which repeat-flowering varieties do not always share to the same extent. For example, once-flowering roses are considerably hardier in poor conditions, and most have more blooms, more foliage and stronger perfume than most repeat-flowering varieties.

It should also be borne in mind that, with the generally warmer weather in Europe in recent years, some varieties classified as once-flowering have become repeat-flowering; for example, in our garden, Albertine seems to be one of these.

Our advice usually is restrict yourself to looking exclusively at repeat-flowering varieties only if there is a really pressing need to do so.

See our Book p. 74.

8. Can I plant Old roses where roses have grown before?

Roses often fail if they are replanted where they have been growing before, or where other roses have been growing. This is probably caused by a build-up of pathogens and a lack of fertility.

The planting position should be dug over to remove as much old root as possible. It should then be sterilised using one part of formaldehyde to 50 parts of water applied with a watering can and left undisturbed for 6 weeks. After this the position should be trenched and manured.


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